The Yanapaccha Snowcapped Mountain is located at the end of the Llanganuco valley in the Cordillera Blanca, in the province of Yungay. Despite its height, this snowcapped mountain is more difficult than Mount Pisco. Currently, the approach is via kilometer 42 near the Portachuelo de Llanganuco Pass. From the summit, there is a spectacular view of the snowcapped mountains Chacraraju, Pisco, Huandoys, and Huascarán.
Route: Normal (West Face)
Itinerary
Day 1. Huaraz (3100m) – Moraine Camp (4900m).
After breakfast at the selected hotel, we will travel by private transport to km 42. Approximately 4 hours. During the journey, we will pass through many Andean villages with different customs and traditions, and we will enjoy beautiful views of mountains and lagoons. Upon arrival at km 42, the muleteer will be waiting with the pack animals to take us to the Moraine Camp of our snowcapped mountain. Approximately 3 hours. In the afternoon, after organizing ourselves at the camp, we will review knots and anchors.
Day 2. Moraine Camp.
- Review of types of knots
- Identification of equipment (functions)
- Types of anchors
- Rope techniques on rock
- Rock rescue techniques
Day 3. Moraine Camp – Yanapaccha Glacier.
- Techniques for using crampons on ice
- Anchors in snow and ice
- Rescue and self-rescue techniques
- Ice climbing techniques
Day 4. Moraine Camp – Summit 5460m – Moraine Camp – Huaraz.
The departure time for this day is scheduled at 2:00 am, which means we will wake up one hour earlier to get ready and begin the ascent. We will have beautiful views of Huascarán, the Huandoys, Pisco, and Chacraraju. Once on the summit and after taking great photos, we will descend by the same route back to our camp and then continue to Huaraz. The total time for this day is approximately 8 hours.
Services
INCLUDES
- Transfer from the bus terminal to the selected hotel in Huaraz
- Transfer from the hotel to the bus terminal in Huaraz (last day)
- Private transportation to take and pick up the group to/from km 42
- IFMGA / UIAGM Certified Mountain Guide (English, Spanish)
- Mountain cook
- Full board in camp (B-L-D)
- Muleteers and pack animals (mules) to Moraine Camp
- Entrance to Huascarán National Park
- Two-person tents
- Kitchen tent (up to Base Camp)
- Dining tent (up to Base Camp)
- Tables, chairs (up to Base Camp)
- Kitchenware: plates, spoons, pots, etc.
- Boiled water for bottles (1 liter) every day
- Collective mountain equipment:
- 60 m ropes
- Snow stakes
- Ice screws
NOT INCLUDE
- Air ticket to Lima and return
- Transfers from the airport to the hotel in Lima
- Bus ticket Lima – Huaraz – Lima
- Hotel in Lima and Huaraz
- Does not include the first breakfast
- Meals and drinks in the city
- Personal climbing equipment
- Cold-weather clothing such as hats, gloves, down jackets
- Emergency transportation in case of accidents
- International medical insurance
- Accident and rescue insurance
- Personal porters
- Personal tents (can be rented)
- Tips for the staff
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT TO BRING
- Duffel bag or backpack: to carry your main gear on pack animals
- Sun hat
- Cold-weather hat (fleece or wool)
- UV-protection sunglasses
- 1-liter water bottle
- Sunscreen
- 40 to 50-liter backpack
- Gore-Tex windproof jacket
- Gore-Tex windproof pants
- Down jacket
- 1 pair of Gore-Tex gloves with 1 pair of inner wool gloves
- Socks (2 pairs for climbing)
- Personal first-aid kit
- Sleeping bag -25°C
- Sleeping pad
MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT
- Snow boots
- Crampons (with anti-balling plates)
- Climbing helmet
- Headlamp with spare batteries
- Climbing harness
- 1 pair of technical ice axes
Optional
- 1 one-liter thermos
- Trekking poles
- Sandals