Normal (Northwest Face) via the Gorge
Itinerary
Day 1. Huaraz (3100m) – Musho (3020m) – Base Camp (4200m)
After breakfast at the selected hotel, we will travel by private transport to the town of Musho, approximately 1.5 hours. There, the muleteer will be waiting with the mules to carry us to Base Camp, approximately 4 hours. Overnight in tents among the rocks.
Day 2. Base Camp – Camp 1 (5300m)
After breakfast prepared by our experienced cook and with the help of the porters, we continue our ascent along a rocky trail until reaching the glacier of our mountain, approximately 4 hours. Along the way, we will pass the Huascarán Refuge, which we can use on the return to have some drinks or eat something different from our daily menu. Upon reaching the glacier, we will put on the necessary snow equipment to continue our ascent to Camp 1, approximately 2 hours. Overnight on snow.
Day 3. Camp 1 – Camp 2 (5900m)
On this day, we depart earlier than usual to reach Camp 2 and rest sufficiently for the summit ascent the following day, approximately 6 hours. We pass through a place called LA CANALETA, which is between crevasses and seracs, followed by a traverse to our camp. Overnight on snow.
Day 4. Camp 2 – Summit (Huascarán South 6768m) – Camp 2
Early in the morning, the porters prepare our breakfast and see us off to reach our goal: the summit of the highest tropical mountain in the world. The ascent takes approximately 8 hours. After taking great photos at the summit, we descend along the same route back to our camp, approximately 4 hours.
Day 5. Camp 2 – Base Camp
Before sunrise, we begin the descent along the same trail used for the ascent back to Base Camp. The descent takes approximately 6 hours.
Day 6. Base Camp – Musho – Huaraz
Our muleteer arrives with the pack animals to transfer us to the town of Musho, where our private transport will be waiting to take us back to the city of Huaraz.
Services
INCLUDES
- Transfer from the bus terminal to the selected hotel in Huaraz
- Transfer from the hotel to the bus terminal in Huaraz (last day)
- Private transport to take and pick up the group to/from the town of Musho
- IFMGA / UIAGM Certified Mountain Guide (English, Spanish)
- Mountain cook
- Mountain porters for the transfer of logistical equipment from Base Camp to High Camp
- Full board in camp (B-L-D)
- Muleteers and pack animals (mules) to Base Camp
- Entrance to Huascarán National Park
- Two-person tents
- Kitchen tent (up to Base Camp)
- Dining tent (up to Base Camp)
- Tables, chairs (up to Base Camp)
- Bathroom tent (up to Base Camp)
- Kitchenware: plates, spoons, pots, etc.
- Boiled water for bottles (1 liter) every day
- Collective mountain equipment: 60m ropes, snow stakes, ice screws
NOT INCLUDE
- Air ticket to Lima and return
- Transfers from the airport to the hotel in Lima
- Bus ticket Lima – Huaraz – Lima
- Hotel in Lima and Huaraz
- Does not include the first breakfast
- Meals and drinks in the city
- Personal climbing equipment
- Cold-weather clothing such as hats, gloves, down jackets
- Emergency transportation in case of accidents
- International medical insurance
- Accident and rescue insurance
- Personal porters
- Personal tents (can be rented)
- Tips for the staff
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT TO BRING
- Duffel bag or backpack: to carry your main gear on pack animals
- Sun hat
- Cold-weather hat (fleece or wool)
- UV-protection sunglasses
- 1-liter water bottle
- Sunscreen
- 40 or 50-liter backpack
- Gore-Tex windproof jacket
- Gore-Tex windproof pants
- Down jacket
- 1 pair of Gore-Tex gloves with 1 pair of inner wool gloves
- Socks (2 pairs for climbing)
- Personal first-aid kit
- Sleeping bag -30°C
- Sleeping pad
Mountain Equipment
- Snow boots
- Crampons (with anti-balling plates)
- Climbing helmet
- Headlamp with spare batteries
- Climbing harness
- 1 trekking ice axe and 1 technical ice axe
Optional:
- 1 one-liter thermos
- Trekking poles
- Sandals
