French Direct Route
Itinerary
Day 1. Huaraz (3100 m) – Cashapampa (2900 m) – Llamacorral (3760 m).
After breakfast at the hotel, we will transfer with our private transportation to the village of Cashapampa. During the trip we will pass through many Andean villages of the Callejón de Huaylas. We will observe many snow-capped mountains of the Cordillera Blanca such as Huascarán, which is the highest tropical mountain in the world. In the village, our muleteer will be waiting for us to begin the hike through the Santa Cruz Valley to our first campsite, Llamacorral.
6 hours
3 hours
Day 2. Llamacorral – Base Camp (4300 m)
Continuing our route, this day we will observe beautiful lakes such as Ichiccocha Lake and Jatuncocha Lake, which translated into Spanish mean small lake and large lake, and mountains such as Quitarau and Artezonraju, considered the Paramount picture, and of course our mountain, Alpamayo.
6 hours
Day 3. Base Camp – High Camp (5300 m)
After breakfast at Base Camp and with the help of the porters, we will move along a zigzag trail to the glacier of our mountain. Once there, we will put on the necessary mountaineering equipment for the ascent to High Camp, which is on the snow. We will have a good view of the climbing route, the wall of our mountain.
7 hours
Day 4. High Camp – Summit (5947 m) – High Camp.
The most anticipated day has arrived. Our ascent begins very early in order to reach the summit and enjoy the sunrise and the panoramic views of the mountains. The ascent route is the French Direct, which has a wall of approximately 480 m. The descent is done with several rappels.
1:00 am
Approximately 10 hours
Day 5. High Camp – Base Camp.
We descend by the same route as the ascent back to Base Camp. Our cook will be waiting for us with a delicious lunch to replenish our energy and rest, satisfied with the achievement accomplished.
6:00 am
Approximately 6 hours
Day 6. Base Camp – Cashapampa – Huaraz.
It is the end of our expedition. After a good breakfast, we will get ready for our descent through the Santa Cruz Valley to the village of Cashapampa, where our transportation will be waiting to take us to the city of Huaraz.
7 hours
3 hours
Services
INCLUDES
- Transfer from the bus terminal to the hotel in Huaraz
- Transfer from the hotel to the bus terminal in Huaraz
- Private transportation Huaraz – Cashapampa
- Private transportation for pickup Cashapampa – Huaraz
- Official IFMGA / UIAGM Mountain Guide (English, Spanish)
- Full board meals in the field
- Mountain cook
- Mountain porter
- Muleteers and pack animals
- Entrance to Huascarán National Park
- Two-person tents
- Kitchen tent and kitchenware: plates, spoons, pots, etc.
- Boiled water for bottles
- Collective mountaineering equipment: 60 m ropes, snow pickets, ice screws
DOES NOT INCLUDE
- Airfare to Lima and return
- Transfers from the airport to the hotel in Lima
- Bus ticket Lima – Huaraz – Lima
- Hotel in Lima and Huaraz
- Does not include the first breakfast before going to the field
- Meals and drinks in the city
- Personal climbing equipment
- Cold-weather clothing such as hats, gloves, down jackets
- Emergency transportation in case of accidents
- International medical insurance
- Accident and rescue insurance
- Extra costs due to abandonment of the expedition
- Personal porters
- Personal tents (can be rented, the cost is S/. 40 soles per day)
- Tips for the staff
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT TO BRING
- Duffel bag or backpack: to carry your main equipment on pack animals
- Sun hat
- Cold-weather hat (fleece or wool)
- UV protection sunglasses
- 1-liter water bottle
- Sunscreen
- 40 or 50-liter backpack for daily use
- Gore-Tex windproof jacket
- Gore-Tex windproof pants
- Base layer pants (lycra)
- Down jacket
- 1 pair of Gore-Tex gloves with 1 pair of inner wool gloves
- Socks (2 pairs for climbing)
- Personal first aid kit
- Sleeping bag -25 degrees
Mountaineering Equipment
- Mountaineering boots
- Crampons (with anti-balling plates)
- Climbing helmet
- Headlamp with spare batteries
- Climbing harness
- Pair of technical ice axes
- Pair of locking carabiners
- 1 ATC or Reverso
- Daisy chain
Optional
- 1 thermos (1 liter)
- Trekking poles
- Sandals
Excelente experiencia de escalada