This mountain is undoubtedly one of the most challenging ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, as it is a six-thousand-meter peak with an aesthetically attractive summit. To reach its summit, small climbing sections must be completed, crevasses must be crossed, and climbing must be done under the physical effects of a six-thousand-meter altitude. It is located northeast of the city of Huaraz in the Llanganuco Valley, in the province of Yungay.
Itinerary
Day 1. Huaraz (3100 m) – Yungay (2600 m) – Base Camp (4300 m) – Morrena Camp (4900 m)
After breakfast at the chosen hotel, we will transfer with our private transportation to the place called Cruce de Chopicalqui (approximately 3 hours). During the trip, we will pass through many Andean villages with different customs and traditions, enjoying beautiful views of mountains and lakes. From this point, we begin our ascent with the help of the porters toward Morrena Camp (approximately 5 hours).
Day 2. Morrena Camp – High Camp (5300 m)
We continue our ascent along a rocky trail (approximately 40 minutes), where we will put on the necessary mountaineering equipment to continue our climb (approximately 4 hours). The ascent is done with the help of the porters.
Day 3. High Camp – Summit – Morrena/Base Camp
We wake up around midnight to continue our ascent to the summit (approximately 6 hours). Along the way, we will cross some crevasses, climb some snow walls, and walk along some ridges to reach our goal, the summit. After taking beautiful photos, we will descend along the same trail back to High Camp, then to Morrena Camp, and possibly to Base Camp. Total time for ascent and descent: approximately 13 hours.
Day 4. Morrena/Base Camp – Huaraz
Transfer to Huaraz with our private transportation.
Services
INCLUDES
- Transfer from the bus terminal to the selected hotel in Huaraz
- Transfer from the hotel to the bus terminal in Huaraz (last day)
- Private transportation to the starting point to begin the ascent
- Private transportation for pickup
- Official IFMGA / UIAGM Mountain Guide (English, Spanish)
- Mountain cook
- Mountain porters for transporting logistical equipment from Base Camp to High Camp
- Full board meals in the field (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
- Entrance to Huascarán National Park
- Two-person tents
- Collective mountaineering equipment: 60 m ropes, snow pickets, ice screws
NOT INCLUDE
- Airfare to Lima and return
- Transfers from the airport to the hotel in Lima
- Bus ticket Lima – Huaraz – Lima
- Hotel in Lima and Huaraz
- Does not include the first breakfast
- Meals and drinks in the city
- Personal climbing equipment
- Cold-weather clothing such as hats, gloves, down jackets
- Emergency transportation in case of accidents
- International medical insurance
- Accident and rescue insurance
- Personal porters
- Personal tents (can be rented)
- Tips for the staff
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT TO BRING
- Duffel bag or backpack: to carry your main equipment on pack animals
- Sun hat
- Cold-weather hat (fleece or wool)
- UV protection sunglasses
- 1-liter water bottle
- Sunscreen
- 40 or 50-liter backpack
- Gore-Tex windproof jacket
- Gore-Tex windproof pants
- Down jacket
- 1 pair of Gore-Tex gloves with 1 pair of inner wool gloves
- Socks (2 pairs for climbing)
- Personal first aid kit
- Sleeping bag -25 degrees
Mountaineering Equipment
- Mountaineering boots
- Crampons (with anti-balling plates)
- Climbing helmet
- Headlamp with batteries
- Climbing harness
- 1 trekking ice axe + 1 technical ice axe
Optional
- 1 thermos (1 liter)
- Trekking poles
William was exceptionally accommodating and welcoming when my son and I climbed Chopicalqui. He made us feel safe and allowed us to take part in decisions. His hospitality and service-minded approach went above and beyond oir expectations