It is one of the classic 6,000-meter peaks in the Cordillera Blanca, and without a doubt, a very aesthetic snow-capped mountain that can be seen from the moment you start entering the Ishinca Valley and never goes out of sight, even better from the Base Camp. It is technically and physically more challenging than its neighbors, Nevado Urus and Ishinca, making it the perfect goal for those who are already acclimatized and looking for some action in the mountains.
Itinerary
Day 1: Huaraz 3100m – Pashpa 3800m – Base Camp 4350m
After breakfast at the chosen hotel, we will transfer with our private transportation to the town of Pashpa, approximately 1 hour. Here, the muleteer with the mules will be waiting for us to take us to Base Camp, approximately 5 hours (There is a refuge at this location with all the amenities if you wish to use it).
Day 2: Base Camp – Morrena Camp 4900m
After a good breakfast, we continue our ascent along a rocky trail with panoramic views of some snow-capped mountains such as Palcaraju and Ranrapalca. Estimated time to the High Camp is approximately 4 hours, where we will set up our tents and rest to wake up early the next day for the summit. The ascent is done with the help of the porters.
Day 3: Morrena Camp – Summit – Base Camp
Day 4: Base Camp – Huaraz. Return to Huaraz.
Return to Huaraz to take a well-deserved rest.
Services
INCLUDES
- Transfer from the bus terminal to the chosen Hotel in Huaraz
- Transfer from the Hotel to the terminal in Huaraz (on the last day)
- Private transportation to take and pick up the group to the town of Pashpa
- Official Mountain Guide IFMGA / UIAGM (English, Spanish)
- Mountain Cook
- Mountain Porters for transporting logistical equipment from Base Camp to High Camp
- Full meals in the field (B-L-D)
- Muleteers and pack animals (mules) up to Base Camp
- Entrance to Huascarán National Park
- Two-person tents
- Kitchen tent (up to Base Camp)
- Dining tent (up to Base Camp)
- Tables, chairs (up to Base Camp)
- Bathroom tent (up to Base Camp)
- Kitchenware: plates, spoons, pots, etc.
- Boiled water for bottles (1 liter) every day
- Collective Mountain Equipment: 60m ropes, snow stakes, ice screws
NOT INCLUDED
- Air ticket to Lima and return
- Transfers from the Airport to the Hotel in Lima
- Bus ticket Lima – Huaraz – Lima
- Hotel in Lima and Huaraz
- Does not include the first breakfast
- Meals and drinks in the city
- Personal climbing equipment
- Cold weather clothing such as hats, gloves, down jackets
- Emergency transportation in case of accidents
- International Medical Insurance
- Accident and Rescue Insurance
- Personal porters
- Personal tents (can be rented)
- Tips for the staff
NECESSARY GEAR TO BRING
- Canvas bag or backpack: to carry your main gear on mules
- Sun hat
- Cold weather hat (fleece or wool)
- UV protection sunglasses
- 1-liter water bottle
- Sunscreen
- 40 or 50-liter backpack
- Gore-Tex windbreaker jacket
- Gore-Tex windbreaker pants
- Down jacket
- 1 pair of Gore-Tex gloves with 1 pair of wool inner gloves
- Socks (2 pairs for climbing)
- Personal first aid kit
- Sleeping bag -25 degrees
- Sleeping pad
Mountaineering Equipment
- Snow boots
- Crampons (with anti-bot plates)
- Climbing helmet
- Headlamp with spare batteries
- Climbing harness
- 1 pair of technical ice axes
Optional
- 1 1-liter thermos
- Trekking poles
- Sandals







